Few watches have rewritten the rules of modern watchmaking quite like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. When it debuted in 1976, the design was borderline scandalous: a luxury timepiece made of steel, shaped like a ship’s porthole, and priced like a dress watch from a brand better known for perpetual calendars more than sporty swagger. Nearly 50 years later, the Gérald Genta-designed model has gone from controversial oddball to perhaps the single most recognizable luxury sports watch on the planet—and arguably the most difficult one to buy at retail without either a longstanding relationship or a monk’s patience.
To mark the model’s 50th anniversary, Patek Philippe is unveiling four limited-edition Nautilus models at Watches and Wonders 2026. Instead of radically reinventing the watch—an approach that would likely trigger a small crisis among collectors—the Genevan manufacture is leaning into what made it famous in the first place: slim cases, clean dials, and that unmistakable porthole-inspired silhouette.
The Return of the ‘Medium’ Nautilus
The star of the anniversary lineup is the new Reference 5610/1P-001, a platinum Nautilus measuring 38mm across. In a market where sports watches have steadily grown in size over the past two decades, this one feels refreshingly restrained. More importantly, it echoes the medium-size Nautilus models that appeared in the 1980s, most notably in references like the 3800 that helped broaden the appeal of the design beyond the original ‘Jumbo.’ For collectors who’ve long felt that the modern Nautilus has drifted slightly away from its vintage proportions, this one lands squarely in the sweet spot.
The case measures just 6.9mm thick and features the familiar alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing that defines the Nautilus architecture. A blue sunburst dial with the model’s signature horizontal embossing keeps things classic, while white-gold baton markers and luminous hands ensure excellent legibility. PP puts a diamond on all its platinum watch, a sexy little wink, and this one is discreetly positioned within the hinge at nine o’clock.
Inside beats the ultra-thin automatic Caliber 240, a movement introduced in 1977 and still prized for its elegant architecture. Its 22K gold mini-rotor allows the movement to remain remarkably slim while still offering automatic winding—one of the key reasons the watch maintains its impressively thin profile.
The White-Gold Jumbo Pair
Patek Philippe, 5810/1G_001_PRESSJean-Daniel Meyer
