TAAKK Spring Summer 2027 builds its menswear proposal around the act of looking again. Titled The Ability of Discovery, the collection reflects Takuya Morikawa’s interest in familiar subjects that reveal new meaning through attention. Flowers, fabric, the body, material and structure already exist, yet Morikawa treats them as open questions. The season asks what happens when a designer changes the way he observes them.
Flowers give the collection its emotional entry point. Morikawa connects them to childhood memories, his mother’s garden and grandparents who lived close to nature and seasonal change. He does not use flowers only as decorative symbols. He reads them through time: a flower surfaces, stretches upward, blooms and eventually fades. That cycle gives the collection a sense of movement, from emergence to disappearance.
Irving Penn adds another layer to the season. Morikawa returns to the impact Penn’s photographs had on him in his twenties. What interests him most is not the subject matter alone, but the photographer’s ability to transform ordinary things through focus, light and shadow. Penn’s images stripped away distraction, yet kept density and presence. TAAKK carries that idea into garments that feel reduced, but never empty.
Textile development remains the foundation of the brand. Morikawa, who established TAAKK in Tokyo in 2013 after eight years at ISSEY MIYAKE, continues to treat fabric as the starting point of design. The collection develops through weaving, texture, finishing and structure. Material does not support the idea from the outside. It creates the idea from within.
Gradient fabrics show this clearly. For TAAKK, gradient means more than a shift in color. Different materials and fabric structures evolve inside one cloth, allowing texture, tone and weave to change across the surface. This gives menswear a sense of internal movement, as if each garment carries several states at once.
Embroidered structures bring a more sculptural quality. Cutwork and tape embroidery, made from the same fabric, build depth across the surface. The technique creates shadow, volume and presence without relying on decoration alone. It changes how the fabric behaves and how the garment occupies the body.
Jewelry extends the collection’s material language. Raw mineral forms appear as objects that carry irregularity and natural force. Created with 4°C, they reflect the collection’s interest in revealing qualities already embedded in matter. Belts developed with yuhaku add another crafted element through leatherwork shaped by Tomohiro Nakagaki’s artistic approach.
With The Ability of Discovery, TAAKK Spring Summer 2027 focuses on menswear as a process of observation. Morikawa does not force newness. He finds it inside existing forms, through fabric, patience and a sharper way of seeing.
