In 2001, FGF Industry, an Italian fashion holding company, signed a licensing agreement with the American brand Blauer, which was founded in 1936 and originally supplied the police, navy and other armed forces with technical clothing, to introduce the brand into the fashion market.
This came about due to FGF President Enzo Fusco’s fascination with, and years of collecting, American police jackets – most notably Blauer’s ‘Cruiser’ jacket, the original of which came from the union of two military jackets, the bomber and the biker, revised and adapted to the needs of the police.
At first, Fusco started with a limited offer, reinterpreting US police wear in softer materials and more fashion-forward looks for his home market in Italy. Then it grew – and grew – and by 2017, FGF had acquired 50% of the Blauer fashion brand.
Earlier this year, during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, FGF marked the 25th anniversary of its relationship with Blauer with an exclusive event at Triennale Milano, celebrating the brand’s “evolution through heritage, family, and creative collaboration”.
Rooted in American origins and shaped in Italy under the Fusco family, the milestone was centred on ‘Family Grammar,’ an exhibition exploring family as a creative force and reflecting Blauer’s long-term vision and cultural positioning.
A special archive collaboration was presented with Francine, the upcycled fashion brand launched last year by stylist and eBay pre-loved style director Amy Bannerman.
Four vintage leather jackets from the Blauer archive were reworked by artist Chiara Perano, “exploring themes of memory, preservation, and reinvention” -highlighting Blauer’s commitment to craftsmanship, sustainability and cultural dialogue.
The event welcomed press, industry and cultural figures, with Liam Gallagher’s son Gene – frontman and guitarist for the upcoming indie rock band Villanelle -in attendance, sporting a Blauer jacket with typical family swagger.
While Blauer has achieved huge success in the fashion sphere in Italy and across mainland Europe under the guidance of FGF, which also owns high-end outerwear brand Ten c (Liam Gallagher wore its ‘Skye Ten Anorak’ during the first concert of Oasis’s reunion tour in 2025), it has never really penetrated the UK market with any real force.
That could all be about to change, with a new dedicated focus on the UK, as FGF is actively looking for the best commercial partner to get it into the right accounts across its men’s and women’s ranges for AW26. Enzo Fusco tells TheIndustry.fashion about his Blauer journey so far, and his plans for the UK.
What does FGF stand for?
It’s named after my daughter, Federica, who heads up our communications and marketing, and my son-in-law, Giuseppe D’Amore, who is the CEO of FGF Industry Group, but we have kept the Fusco name, hence FGF.
How did your relationship with Blauer in the US begin?
I have collected military clothing my entire life, but 25 years ago a close friend visited me wearing a military-grade technical jacket by Blauer USA. I have always been fascinated by that style and own a personal archive of over 40,000 pieces. I was so struck by that jacket that I immediately wanted to fly to meet the Blauer family and launch a fashion brand inspired by that aesthetic.
How did that relationship develop?
After purchasing my first Blauer USA piece, I realised I wanted to bring the brand into my company – initially by importing garments from America, and later through a licence that allowed us to present a full collection.
We started very cautiously, with four or five pieces representing American police wear, but interpreted “the Italian way,” using slightly softer, more fashion-oriented materials. The response was immediately positive. From there, we gradually expanded the initial offering to include womenswear (in 2004), which today accounts for about 45% of the business and is showing greater growth than the men’s. We also introduced Blauer ‘Junior’ and ‘Baby’ collections.
How does the existing Blauer USA business differ to the FGF version of Blauer?
The Blauer family is American, based in Boston, and has a large business producing uniforms for the armed forces. In order to create Blauer fashion, a separate company was established, of which we have been 50% co-owners since 2017.
Blauer in America is a highly structured company that operates independently with its technical products. Italian Blauer ready-to-wear was instead born with inspiration from American military garments and remains a product created for the European fashion market. We have an excellent relationship with the Blauer family in the US and are fully independent in all business decisions. The goal is to eventually acquire full ownership and make it entirely our independent company.
What is the background of Blauer in the United States?
Blauer USA was founded in 1936 by Mr. Blauer, who emigrated to the United States from Austria and began his career as a tailor. He produced highly functional raincoats for soldiers and later became an official supplier to the US Army. The company is still active today as a supplier of technical apparel for all US armed forces.
Do you work together with Blauer USA to develop the fashion collections?
We regularly exchange ideas with our American partners regarding new fabrics and technical materials, but stylistically the archive where I spend most of my time is my personal one, built over 60 years of my career. It includes all the pieces we originally imported from the US.
How does your wholesale network operate and how big is the Blauer fashion brand now?
We do not sell wholesale in the traditional sense, but through a network of agencies that build one-to-one relationships with clients. Today, FGF Industry generates approximately €94 million in total revenue (including Ten c and the Blauer footwear licence) and distributes across most of Europe and key Asian markets such as Japan and South Korea. We are proud to remain one of the few fully family-run groups without private equity involvement.
What are Blauer’s three main markets and its most recognisable products today?
Italy remains our strongest market and the brand’s home. Germany and Spain follow closely. Blauer’s iconic products are the ‘Policeman’, the ‘Four-Pocket Jacket’ and the ‘Bomber’. Among younger consumers, our ‘Ondina’ puffer jacket has become hugely popular, named for its wave-like quilting inspired by the interior of a vintage military garment. Today, three out of five young people in Italy wear it, and many variations now exist.
Do you now have aspirations to target the UK market?
Blauer is currently underrepresented in the UK compared to our ambitions. In the recent past, we worked with a strong UK agent and the collaboration itself was positive. With hindsight, however, it is fair to say that at that stage we as a brand were not fully structured or positioned in a way that allowed us to capitalise on the opportunity. Today the situation is materially different.
The UK is a unique market with different cultural influences. We have refined the collection architecture and identified specific segments within the range that we are confident are commercially aligned with the UK market.
We are currently seeking a commercial partner and are working with a PR office to communicate our values and product. There is still work to do to truly win over the British market, but we hope to establish a strong commercial presence soon.
How do markets differ in relation to Blauer’s presence?
Market dynamics vary significantly by territory. Blauer delivers very strong results in Italy and performs well across mainland Europe, yet it has remained marginal in the UK – but with huge potential. Conversely, there are numerous brands that are highly successful in the UK but have little to no presence in Italy. This reflects distribution structure, timing, brand narrative and local market conditions rather than product capability alone.
We believe we now have the right product mix and organisational clarity to approach the UK market properly. The objective is not a short-term entry, but a structured and sustainable build. We are therefore open to discussions with experienced UK partners who understand the positioning required and are aligned with a long-term development strategy. Interest from British buyers is also growing.
What are Blauer’s market positioning?
Blauer’s strength lies in offering quality at the right price. We operate in the upper-mid sportswear segment, with prices ranging from €200 to €1,200.
How would you describe the typical Blauer customer?
The Blauer customer is fashion-aware but also a global citizen who values practicality and elegance at the right price. Our customer base is transversal, ranging from young people to more mature men and women. Teenagers choose the ‘Ondina’ for school and leisure, while professionals opt for padded coats or four-pocket parkas for work.
Is the product still heavily branded, or has this been softened for markets like the UK?
The brand is recognised primarily through the shield logo on the sleeve, which represents our heritage and cannot be removed. However, in some cases, it can be detached, leaving only the velcro outline. We also adapt the logo’s aesthetic to each garment – thermo-bonded on technical jackets, embellished with rhinestones on faux fur, tone-on-tone on leather, and more. We have hundreds of variations.
We also removed ‘USA’ from the official logo a few years ago, as after 25 years we can proudly say we are an Italian brand with American origins.
When was Ten c founded and when did FGF acquire it?
Ten c was founded in 2010 by Alessandro Pungetti and Paul Harvey as a non-logo, military-inspired creative project. I acquired it in 2019 and integrated it into FGF Industry. Thanks to Liam Gallagher wearing the ‘Skye Anorak’ on tour, the brand gained global visibility and sold out entirely.
What are your plans for Ten c in the UK?
We have established a new commercial partner in Studio DP, founded by Gino Da’ Prato, who was co-founder and former Sales Director of Four Marketing. Gino is a highly respected operator within the UK market with long-standing relationships and strong credibility. We are very pleased to be working with him again, now within a clearer and more focused commercial structure.
Ten c launched dedicated corners in Harvey Nichols in London’s Knightsbridge and Harvey Nichols Manchester for the full AW25 season. Both remain operational.
For SS26, the focus will be on Knightsbridge. Our objective is to ensure a consistent and visible presence in London throughout 2026.
Beyond Harvey Nichols, we are pleased to be working with a broad network of long-standing and newly appointed UK partners across the country. Rather than highlighting individual accounts, it is important to say that for us every partner is considered strategic. We strongly believe in personal relationships, long-term collaboration and selective distribution. The UK market is built through trust, consistency and mutual commitment, and that is the approach we are taking.
Is Ten c very different from Blauer?
Yes, it is. Ten c focuses on innovation in materials and craftsmanship. It is defined by its exclusive Japanese cotton OJJ fabric. The Ten c customer seeks niche, non-mainstream luxury. It is particularly strong in markets like Japan and South Korea.
