Both these hearty curries use coconut as part of their base gravy. The region of Kutch in Gujarat is brimming with vegetable curries, and the bhagare baingan features many classic Kutchi ingredients; it has several similarities to the Hyderabadi version, too. I’ve used baby aubergines, but if need be you can use regular diced aubergines instead. Avial, meanwhile, is often served at celebrations in south India, and this version is a Keralan recipe made with a flavourful coconut paste.
Bhagare baingan, or aubergines cooked with coconut, chilli, tamarind and curry leaves (pictured top)
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4
For the paste
1 tbsp poppy seeds
2 tbsp vegetable oil
90g finely chopped white onion
1 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp grated fresh coconut
For the gravy
160g fresh tomatoes
4 tbsp vegetable oil
150g thinly sliced white onions
5 garlic cloves
, peeled and ground to a paste
¼ tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder
2 tsp ground cumin
Salt, to taste
8-10 baby aubergines, slit open lengthways
1½ tsp tamarind paste
½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper
2 mild dried red chillies
12 fresh curry leaves
Coriander, to garnish
Rice or roti, to serve
For the paste, soak the poppy seeds in 70ml warm water 20 minutes. Meanwhile, put the oil in a small frying pan on a medium heat, then fry the onions for eight or nine minutes, just until they start to change colour. Add the sesame seeds and grated fresh coconut, and fry, stirring, for two minutes. Take off the heat and leave to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, stir in the poppy seeds and their soaking liquid, then blitz the lot to a smooth paste.
Meanwhile, put the tomatoes in a blender and blitz to a smooth puree. In a large, heavy-based frying pan for which you have a lid, heat the oil over a medium heat, then add the onions and fry, stirring regularly, for 17-18 minutes, until softened and lightly browned. Add the garlic paste, fry for 20 seconds, then stir in the turmeric, chilli powder and cumin, and fry, stirring for a few seconds, until fragrant.
Add the pureed tomatoes and fry, stirring, for five minutes, until the mix splits and the oil leaves the side of the pan. Add the ground poppy seed and onion paste and fry, stirring continuously, for four minutes. Pour in 350ml warm water, season with salt to taste, then stir in the aubergines, cover and simmer on a low heat for about 15 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Add the tamarind paste and simmer for a further five minutes.
Take off the heat and stir in the black pepper, whole dried red chillies and curry leaves. Garnish with coriander and serve warm with roti or rice.
Avial, or vegetable stew with coconut, ginger, curry leaves and green chillies
Prep 20 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 4
For the paste
200g grated fresh coconut
2½cm x 2½cm piece ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 green bird’s eye chilli
For the curry
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 dried mild chilli, roughly broken into pieces
7-8 fresh curry leaves
70g finely chopped white onion
1 tsp turmeric powder
200g medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
150g potato
(use a good all-rounder such as red rooster), peeled and cut into 1cm dice
200g french beans, all topped and cut into three roughly equal pieces
½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper
Salt, to taste
3 tbsp greek yoghurt
Coriander, to garnish
Rice or paratha, to serve
For the paste, put the fresh coconut, ginger, cumin seeds and chilli in a blender, add 200ml water and blitz to a smooth paste.
Put the oil in a heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat. Add the mustard seeds, dried chilli and curry leaves. After 15 or so seconds, when they start to splutter and pop, add the chopped onions and fry, stirring, for seven or eight minutes, until they start to soften. Add the turmeric and the chopped carrots and potatoes, fry, stirring, for just a few seconds, then pour in 200ml water, cover and bring to a simmer. Leave to cook gently for 10 minutes, then add the chopped green beans and cook for another eight minutes, until all the vegetables are tender.
Add the coconut paste and the ground black pepper, season with salt to taste, then stir and simmer for another two minutes. Whisk the yoghurt, then stir it into the pan and simmer for a minute more. Garnish with coriander and serve at once with rice or paratha.
Maunika Gowardhan’s most recent book, Curry: Recipes from Indian Home Kitchens, is published by Quadrille at £26. To order a copy for £23.40, go to guardianbookshop.com
