The Spring 2026 season will go down in fashion history as one of the industry’s most tumultuous periods, with a staggering number of new creative director debuts taking place. One of those debuts was Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for the House of Balenciaga.
Now, just over a year since Piccioli’s runway debut, Balenciaga has announced that he is stepping down from his post as creative director following his May 2025 appointment, according to a statement from parent company Kering reported yesterday.
A New Direction for the House of Balenciaga
“We are deeply grateful for Pierpaolo’s contribution to Balenciaga. Through his vision, he reaffirmed the couture origins of the House, bringing his considered approach to craftsmanship, construction and creativity. I would like to sincerely thank him for his dedication, generosity and collaboration.” — Gianfranco Gianangeli, President and CEO of Balenciaga
Piccioli’s move to Balenciaga was a big one. The designer had departed Valentino a year prior after spending over a decade and a half as the Maison’s creative director, eight of those years spent co-designing alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Bringing Couture Back to Balenciaga
Known for his incredible couture skills and romantic, avant-garde vision, Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga received glowing praise, expertly melding his personal aesthetic with not only Balenciaga’s couture codes but also his predecessor Demna’s unique vision.
Still, the transition and stark contrast between Demna’s grungy, often outlandish streetwear aesthetic and a more romanticised vision of the House were not without their challenges, and Piccioli’s second and, now, final ready-to-wear collections received more mixed reviews. Plus, with sizeable sales goals and measured growth being major factors in Kering’s new vision for Balenciaga, Piccioli saw considerable pushback.
The beloved designer eventually took to Instagram yesterday to express his passion for the art of couture and thank those who have contributed to his work, but neglected to directly address his departure.
Entering the Martine Rose Era
Piccioli will be replaced by beloved menswear designer Martine Rose, who had been widely rumoured to be taking the brand’s helm. Rose, who spent three years as a menswear consultant during Demna’s tenure, will begin her appointment on November 16.
Her appointment not only marks a historic moment for the House of Balenciaga, as she becomes the first female creative director in the Maison’s 109-year history, but also represents a pivotal moment for an industry that has long been dominated by male creative directors. Rose will take on the role effective November 16.
Her appointment comes as Balenciaga looks to shift towards a more Gen-Z-focused strategy, an audience that Rose’s eponymous label largely caters to. She is expected to present her first collection for Balenciaga in March.
